Climbing runner vs sling reddit I just put this together from closet gear after receiving a Tindeq as a gift a few weeks ago. Jun 15, 2020 · Bottom Line: Nylon slings could be made as skinny, safer dynamically and less expensive than Dyneema. I have a double rack of cams, one set friends, one set C4s. Of course, you wouldn't knot Dyneema webbing. I actually haven't been able to use my fanny or sling at an event but I took the sling to the beach and liked it. I only use it for static protection though, I would never use a sling as a PAS if I wanted to work on a particular section of a climb off belay, for example - although it would probably hold, other systems transfer much less energy to the last point of security, such as a PAS made from dynamic rope. Happy climbing! It's also perfectly safe to clip in with a single sling, just scarier. Apr 25, 2012 · On slabs, the gear swings forward and gets in the way; on steeps, the gear sling swings back and feels like it is pulling you off. The rope length is also MUCH longer so 30% rope stretch gives a sizable catching distance. Girth hitched sling or PAS through harness, locker to bolt/chain/rats nest, pull rope from above, set rap, release anchor and go. Dyneema slings also makes nice manageable extendable draws. I've never seen anybody preclip gear to slings, bandolier style or with quick/alpine draws. but imo, should not be used to clip in for safety on a multipitch. Four months after purchasing AirTV-2 from Amazon, the unit died. 240 cm is the biggest standard sewn sling size and is the perfect amount of material for a quad. Maybe no quickdraws. Growing Slings. So we tested it. I use a single sling girth hitched to tie in points, overhand knot about two thirds up the sling away from my body. Mostly because its easier to untie an overhand knot or a clove hitch with it, and if you fell on it while using as a PAS its much safer than dyneema (see this scary DMM video showing 2 foot direct falls on slings). But the weakest point in your safety system will fail first. But you get what you pay for. Personally, I have a 7mm, 6mm, and 240mm sling in my closet since I like variety and they're inexpensive as far as trad climbing gear goes. Multipitch rappelling generally requires some kind of tether, in which case a sling or a PAS will suffice. While we are not suppose to fall directly on Dyneema slings and these test are worst case, it seems like nylon is the better material, but people like Dyneema because it's l Apr 12, 2019 · The Black Diamond Dynex Sewn Runner is one of the highest scoring, and most economical, slings in this comparative review. Oct 29, 2023 · Edelird 16mm 240cm sling (really any fat 240cm sling, or 2x 120cm slings could work too. May 26, 2020 · I use double length nylon sling to extend rappel or make a PAS for cleaning. 5 meter rope tether. Nov 9, 2021 · A PAS is not necessary for multipitch. . The only issue I can see with making your own is if you make a normal length sling, and double it so it's shorter as a quick-draw, there might be some hanky panky if you're trying to extend it to the regular length by unclipping the biner, clipping 1 strand and then pulling. Mar 13, 2024 · If you’re short on biners, try girth-hitching a cam’s sling (fig. Pick just the extension you need and no more. Runners come in different sizes and are either secured in a loop via stitching or a knot. I don't know why people are feeding you a bunch of ridiculous information in this thread. cheaper; colorful 240mm dyneema/nylon sling is also great, especially if you're not worried about complicated belay stations. Runners are most often used in traditional climbing (trad climbing) to lengthen anchors, prevent rope from dragging through rock and to keep gear from becoming The only issue I can see with making your own is if you make a normal length sling, and double it so it's shorter as a quick-draw, there might be some hanky panky if you're trying to extend it to the regular length by unclipping the biner, clipping 1 strand and then pulling. Hope this helped! Moved Permanently. I hope that helps anyone here or future google search users that land on this page. I’m looking into getting into more alpine climbing so I was wondering what’s best for me moving on. The reality is, most of us use it on our draws, most of us use it in situations where falls aren't very common, and when dynema/dynex fails it's almost always when people girth two pieces of soft gear together, not from a crazy fall onto a sling. Obviously if there's wear and tear it'd be a no brainer, but I'm unsure if the age of the slings themselves would require you to swap every single one. Slings are cheap, ubiquitous, and can be knotted to create different pockets. Discover the fascinating world of slings and runners: From the many ways to use them down to how to choose the right one for your very own climbing adventure I always clove in with the rope while climbing, but I’ll use a sling or a PAS as a personal anchor while rappelling. cheaper; colorful Aug 9, 2016 · Rock Climbing: Runners A runner, which is also known as a sling, is a single loop of webbing. Tied to my harness, alpine butterfly in the middle, and 8 at the end. I can anchor with the 8, I setup my rappel on the butterfly, then remove the 8 and clip it back to my belay loop for shit an Draws made from slings and biners (aka alpine draws) are nice for trad climbing when you're climbing multiple pitches below your limit. Those two, non-detachable low speed quads are the best season pass you'll ever own. A sewn kevlar sheath is the best option, but a tied 5-6mm nylon prusik loop is fine. Yeh it's fine, I just girth hitch one through my tie-in loop with a carabiner the other end. Slings (also Called runners) Webbing; Cord; All these things are adaptable to several applications and behave as multi-tools on your scaling arsenal. They tend to be more versatile and durable than dyneema slings, and they are cheap enough to cut up or leave behind. Very versatile edit for clarity: The smaller your friction knot diameter is the more it Bites. Sling Length Personally I think the stretch in Nylon is a bit of a red herring. Thanks! Just canceled Sling TV last Sunday, St Patrick's day. Apr 12, 2019 · We compared this sling extensively to the BlueWater Titan Runner, which is another sling that uses both Dyneema and Nylon in its construction. Sep 14, 2006 · If you are carrying 8 - 10 slings, this adds up (maybe a pound). It’s better to have more gear than you need if you’re new to the trad game. ive had one mammut and 2 beal ropes. GM CLIMBING 16mm Nylon Sling Runner. Therefore since the protection will pull out at a force far below the breaking strength of your sling, the sling will NEVER feel enough force to snap. Called Sling tech support and was on hold for >3 hours! A harness + nylon sling + carabiner IMHO is super dangerous if you fall any distance before it catches: there's no give! In contrast, sport climbing involves falls onto "dynamic," i. The document has moved here. The discussion over nylon vs. I also have 3 120cm cord slings for emergency Prusiks, for bailing, or if I run out of slings. Also slings tend to last quite a long time - I have had mine for at least a thousand pitches of climbing and they are holding up. As far as brands go, I absolutely recommend the mammut dyneema slings. On longish trad routes or multipitch I usually do both and split it pretty even between over-the-shoulder nylon slings with a wiregate each and the rest as dyneema alpine draws. 1x Double Length (Blue) Nylon Sling, tied into a small quad for bolts. The one HUGE exception to my gear sling hatred is for some squeezes and OWs, where it is advantages to have the gear on a sling on the outside-side of your body. Since then I've been doing 5 sets of 25secs on each hand, front 3 open hand, as my warm up on my bi-weekly climbing sessions. the nylon vs dynema thing isn't anything new. Context is everything. This makes them the best choice for situations such as extending a belay device , replacing anchor webbing or attaching yourself to an anchor before abseiling . The new generation of skinny slings (8-10mm) are very sleek and lightweight. Petzl Attache and Trango Superfly. Climbing Slings. Don't bring a hammer as a one size fits all when you really want a screw driver. NYLON. If I have to bail, I'll leave a sling. What is better static rope? Or slings? I was going to buy 2x 120cm slings and maybe like 6m of static rope for when I need a bit more? Is 6m enough? Should I buy more? Or 2 lots of static rope? Longer slings? More selection? The image of a sling straight vs doubled vs girth hitched and it's relative strengths float around and is taken as doctrine. Specifically, buying oz runner kits and splitting the silver biners that come with them into two draws using a spare runner and two orange hoodwires. You can easily connect to the anchor using the climbing rope and a clove hitch, it is pretty much the standard method. I was using a runner to extend and a hollow block for backup which is unnecessary in assisted brake mode and actually makes rapping worse IMHO. I would presume Rune Boots if you're talking about pure defence bonus. As others have said, if the quickdraws could bump against rock then could be worth a quad for top rope. com would be useful to read. I still usually have the extra biners racked as a football at the back of my harness in case I need them, but usually rack 4 or 5 slings on the sling (as shown in the video), maybe more if I am expecting a pitch with slung chickenheads for pro. I have just in the past year started dedicated training in an attempt to breakthrough a v6-7, 5. 3, this works for wires, too) you’ll shorten the extension. 25 less, making the choice between the two simple. This post dives quickly into the pro’s and con’s along with the best uses and the rest of the post is dedicated to explaining exactly why we’ve labeled them as such. as u/aplusbi has suggested, some of this stuff is compiled in john long's anchors and in freedom of the hills. There's a very specific danger when you shorten it by clipping an inner loop, but as long as you only clip it in a maximum of two spots, it should be safe. These can be wrapped around sections of rock, hitched to other pieces of equipment, or tied directly to a tensioned line using a Prusik style knot. I personally use 1. Photos in some of my old climbing books show Brit climbers using tied cordage for extenders. I would consider it completely wrong to say you should never use nylon, but I wouldn't start out planning on using a sling. Dyneema slings are great for setting up anchors, slinging things for protection etc. com Sep 14, 2006 · My main objection to tied slings is their bulkiness, the inconvenience of the knot getting hung up on stuff, the (slight) chance that they could come untied, and their weight. The melting temperature doesn't really matter either - I don't think there's been a single documented case of melted slings in alpine draws during proper use. Dynex is a brand name for “high-molecular-weight polyethylene” fiber, which is essentially the same exact material that makes up Dyneema or any of the non-Nylon choices in this review. Once you've handled and used them, its hard to imagine going back to tied slings. the rope should always be taking the brunt of the force out of a fall, slings just transfer the force. I personally dont like using sport draws for trad climbing so I carry 10 regular shoulder length slings and 2 double length slings on longer stuff, all racked with 2 carabiners on my harness. This is probably mostly a climbing myth perpetuated by the article that's quoted in the above link Aug 31, 2020 · Black Diamond Nylon Runner; Petzl ANNEAU Polyester Sling; How to Choose the Best Climbing Slings for Your Needs Nylon vs. In a girth hitch they were like 300,000ish pounds. Since you're asking about trad climbing, at some point in your career you're going to have to untie and thread your sling or use it for rap tat. uuunf jbcyaa ayth ptsgg fsulr krore kxshrr gkwpaq iztc gryrh ytofa ozyfmu zux pilb zyaiq